This post has been YEARS in the making, but it’s finally here! As you know from talking to me or reading the blog for 5 seconds, Amsterdam is probably my favorite place in the world. I studied abroad there, we got engaged there, and if we won the lottery it’s the first place we would go!
I’ve put together travel guides for friends and family before, but I’m finally putting together my favorite restaurants, sights, neighborhoods, and anything else you need to know before you go!
How to get there
Getting to Amsterdam is insanely easy, as they have one of the busiest airports in the world. You can fly direct from most US cities, or, if you’re traveling within Europe, you can fly or take a train. The airport is just a 15 minute train ride from Centraal Station, which is located, well, within the center of the city. You can purchase a ticket at the airport, go downstairs, and hop on a train!
If you want to explore more of the Netherlands, you can easily get to most major cities in less than two hours. I already have a post about day trips from Amsterdam, but my absolute favorite is just 15 minutes away by train- Zaanse Schans!
Things to know
Amsterdam is one of the easiest cities to travel in, especially for first-time travelers to Europe. Everyone speaks flawless English, everyone is friendly, and the city itself is small enough to easily tackle in a few days. It is also easy to travel to and from other cities in Europe from Amsterdam if you want to see multiple cities during your trip.
Obviously, Amsterdam is known for a few things, some less savory than others. Yes, weed is available, but it technically is not legal. You have to smoke it in a coffeeshop (coffeeshops sell weed, cafés sell coffee), you can’t just walk down the street smoking.
Amsterdam is also known for the legality of sex work. Visiting the Red Light District is worth a quick walk through, but know that it is really only a couple of blocks. And yes, you will see women naked or barely clothed, and you will see men going in and out and feel super creeped out. You can not take ANY photos in the district, and this is heavily enforced.
Sights
You may notice that I did not include the Anne Frank House on this list. That is because, unless you are in Amsterdam for more than a week, I don’t think it is worth the trip. The lines are insane (even if you arrive an hour before it opens, you will be waiting in a line that already wraps around the block), tickets book up months in advance, and the house itself is empty. Yes, it is interesting to walk around the house where Anne and her family were forced to hide, and I am not discouraging you from visiting, but know that it will eat into your trip!
Zevenlandenhuizen. Aka the houses of seven countries, this is one of Amsterdam’s hidden gems that you would never notice just walking by. This is a row of seven houses, just a few blocks off Musuemplein (Museum Square) that are each decorated in the style of a different country- Germany, Spain, Russia, England, France, Italy, and the Netherlands.
Begijnhof. Famous for being the site of the ‘Miracle of Amsterdam’ in the Middle Ages, this is an enclosed courtyard surrounded by houses, including the oldest house in Amsterdam! A ‘hof’ is an almshouse, and Beguines were groups of unmarried religious women who lived together under vows of chastity. While tucked away, if you can find the Begijnhof it is like no other place in the city.
Vondelpark. Think of this as Amsterdam’s Central Park. Located in the southern part of the city, Vondelpark is a perfect spot for a picnic, bike ride, or even just an escape into a massive green space.
Dam Square and the Royal Palace. Dam Square is smack dab in the center of the canal ring, and is dominated on one side by the Royal Palace, which still acts as the king’s official reception palace and is primarily used for state visits and other royal events. It was originally built as Amsterdam’s town hall and is open daily for visitors. I highly recommend visiting the palace not only to learn about the country’s royal history, but to see some of the greatest works of art, including King Louis Bonaparte’s (Napoleon’s brother) furniture collection.
Museums
By far, Amsterdam has some of the best museums in the world (in my humble, art-loving opinion). From Van Gogh to Donald Judd, you can see all types of art easily by getting a Museumkaart, which lets you into almost every museum for free or a lower rate, and lets you skip the lines, which is crucial at crowded places like Van Gogh or the Rijksmuseum!
Van Gogh Musuem. Impressionism is my favorite style of painting (nerd alert) and Van Gogh is my favorite painter, so of course I love this museum. Featuring five floors, the museum houses most of Van Gogh’s greatest works, laid out by style, as well as paintings from some of his friends, contemporaries, and artists who were inspired by his work. The museum recently opened a second building as well, featuring special exhibits. Even if you aren’t obsessed with Van Gogh, this is one of the museums you have to visit.
Rijksmuseum. The largest art museum in the country, and featuring over 1 million objects in its collection, the Rijksmuseum is a crash course in Dutch art and history. While the massive size (think the Met in New York) makes it overwhelming, you can map out your trip beforehand so you don’t end up wandering for hours, though I’ve certainly done that a few times on purpose!
Hermitage Musuem. A sister to the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, this is sort of like a mini Rijks and focuses primarily on Dutch masters from the Golden Age.
Rembrandt House. This is sort of a mini museum, as you are really touring the house where Rembrandt lived during his peak. You can easily knock out the museum in less than an hour, but it’s worth a visit if you would like to learn more about the artist and what Amsterdam was like when he lived there.
Willet-Holthuysen. Similar to the Rembrandt House, Willet-Holthuysen is an old canal house built during the Golden Age in 1687. The house was last owned by the Willet-Holthuysen family, who bequeathed the house to the city in 1895 in order to turn it into a museum.
Van Loon Museum. Van Loon is similar to Willet-Holthuysen, just a different family with different historical pieces in the house. We’ve visited Van Loon twice, and love seeing how residents of Amsterdam once lived. The family still owns the house, and live on the top floor!
Verzetmuseum. Verzets means resistance in Dutch, as this museum houses information and artifacts from the Dutch Resistance movement during World War II. While one of the biggest attractions in Amsterdam is the Anne Frank House, it really only tells you the story of Anne and her family, with a quick history of the war. The resistance museum offers a detailed, interactive picture of what the city was like during the war, and focuses on several heroes of the resistance movement.
Moco Museum. We visited the Moco for the first time on our most recent trip. Featuring street art, pop art, and more modern collections, the museum had a huge Banksy exhibit going on at the time which drew us in.
Tropenmuseum. If you are interested in anthropology or the history of Dutch colonialism, the Tropenmuseum is perfect.
Amsterdam Museum. This is one of our favorite museums in Amsterdam, as it is so different from the rest! The museum focuses on the history of the city, starting from the earliest settlers going through the Medieval period, the Golden Age, all the way up until present day. Featuring artifacts, paintings, and visual exhibitions, the museum literally walks you through the fascinating history of Amsterdam. This is perfect for first-time visitors who may not know much about the city itself!
Scheepvaartmuseum. The Dutch were once masters of the sea, and the ship building museum is a great way to see how this tiny country conquered large parts of the globe and established trade routes to faraway lands. You can also go aboard a replica of a Dutch East India Trading Company ship from 1749.
Stedelijk Museum. If you love modern or contemporary art, this is the place for you. Located in Museumplein, you can easily pop in after visiting the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh.
How to get around
If you know anything about Amsterdam, you know it is full of bikes! There are actually more bikes than people, and many of the streets are bike/walk only, as they are too small for cars to get through (remember, Amsterdam is OLD). If you are good at biking, I 100% recommend renting a bike and using it to get around! It is important to know the rules (bikes rule the road!) before you hop on to stay safe and avoid getting yelled at. I biked everywhere when I lived in Amsterdam and it is the best way to see the city. If you aren’t ready for this, Amsterdam is very walkable as the city center/canal ring is pretty small- you can walk from one end of the city to the other in about half an hour. If you don’t want to walk as far, take the tram! You can purchase a ticket on board (enter from the back half of the tram and buy one as soon as you get on to avoid a fine!), or buy an OV Chipkaart (like a metro card) at any train station. Taxis are very expensive in Amsterdam, but Uber is growing and makes a great option if you need to travel a little farther.
Where to stay
I lived in Centrum (aka the center), so we try to stay near my old apartment whenever we go! My absolute favorite neighborhood is Plantage, which is located near the zoo and is full of restaurants, bars, and shops, and is only a 10 minute walk to Centraal Station. If you are new to the city and want to be right in the heart of the action, Jordaan is a great option. Anywhere you stay in Amsterdam will be great, as the city is full of adorable little neighborhoods. I do recommend staying in a rental over a hotel- Amsterdam has outlawed any new hotels from being built in the city center, so all the hotels are very old and very small. I’ve stayed in a few beautiful hotels, but you will get more space and be in a better location with an AirBnB/VRBO rental.
What to eat
G’s Really Nice Place. We discovered this place on our last trip, and ended up going twice! It’s an American-style brunch place (think mimosas, breakfast sandwiches) that had the best music I’ve ever heard at a restaurant. It’s located in De Pijp, one of the coolest neighborhoods in Amsterdam, so it’s a perfect spot to start a day of exploring. While it was closed for the season when we were there last, they also have a brunch boat that sails around the canals!
Coffee and Coconuts. Also in De Pijp, we walked by here on our way to G’s the first morning and knew we had to go in! Located inside a 1930’s theatre, the outside alone looked promising. The inside did not disappoint! From the decor to the food to the incredible drinks, we came here twice! Be warned, it gets insanely busy and despite the large number of seats, you need to get there early if you want to avoid a wait!
Cafe Kadijk. Indonesian food is huge in Amsterdam- it was one of the first Dutch colonies, after all. I had somehow never tried it before, so I was determined to find a good spot this time around! Our AirBnB host recommended this spot and it was incredible! Delicious, cheap, and right across the street from our favorite bar.
Palorma. This is one of our go-to spots- located near my old apartment, it has great Italian food and is always an easy dinner.
Cafe Koosje. In Amsterdam, you can’t go more than a few feet without passing a bar/cafe, and Cafe Koosje is one of my favorites! Located in my old neighborhood, they have great food, bar snacks, and drinks, all tucked into a cozy corner spot that overlooks the zoo, making it perfect for people watching!
Restaurant A Tavola. If you like fancier Italian food, this is the perfect spot! Another recommendation from our last host, and located next door to Kadijk, we dug into giant bowls of pasta and loved it.
Moeders. This is the only place in Amsterdam I know where you can find ‘authentic’ Dutch food, aside from getting invited to someone’s grandma’s house and having her cook for you! Inspired by moeders, the Dutch word for mothers, the restaurant feels like a cozy Sunday dinner. Get the stamppot, aka mashed potatoes with vegetables and sausage!
Cafe Restaurant Stork. Located across the street from one of our favorite breweries (more on that below!), this is a fantastic seafood-focused restaurant inside an old warehouse. Stork is also right on the river, so you can watch boats go by and see Amsterdam from across the IJ River (pronounced ‘eye’).
What to drink
Brouwerij t’ij. Oh, I could go ON AND ON about this brewery. We went almost every day on our last trip, that’s how much we love it. It’s no secret that Z and I love local beer, and we fell in love with this place when I was still studying abroad, after our building RAs arranged a group tour, since it was just down the street! Located inside an old bathhouse next to a windmill, it is our favorite spot in Amsterdam. While they no longer brew at the tasting room, you can still take tours or visit the actual brewery just down the street. We’ve tried every beer, and love every single one of them- you can’t go wrong!
Oedipus Brewing. This is another fantastic brewery, and located right across the street from Stork. Also located in an old warehouse, Oedipus has an array of fantastic beers, as well as tons of games you can play while tucked into their super comfy seating. Oedipus is located in Noord (aka North), across the IJ River from the canal ring. You can either take a ferry from Centraal Station or take a taxi/Uber (this is much quicker and not much more expensive) and explore the entire area, which is also home to the largest flea market in Europe!
Cafe de Druif. This is by far our favorite bar in Amsterdam, and happens to be the oldest bar in the city, dating back to 1566! It is a truly authentic bruincafé, you will usually find yourself the only non-local in the bar!
Amsterdam may seem small, but it is full of restaurants, bars, world-class museums, beautiful scenery, and the nicest locals. While this list could go on and on, this is our go-to list when we visit the city, and features most of our must-sees. You can spend anywhere from a long weekend to a lifetime in Amsterdam, and there will always be more to see!
